News From The Cheese Caves

One of the most frequently-asked questions we receive is which of our cheeses have no lactose. We are happy to reply that all of our cheeses are virtually lactose-free. Having read this, you may wonder how we do that: sell lactose-free cheeses.

The process of cheese making includes three steps that eliminate lactose. Milk that is left out on its own will sour. Lactic acid bacteria (so named for the product they yield) reside in the milk itself and consume the lactose. This acidification is usually enhanced by the addition of cultures in cheese making. Those cultures may be “mother” cultures created by soured milk set aside from the previous day (causing the reduction of lactose) or by commercially prepared cultures. Those cultures work more quickly than the mother cultures and yield more consistent results. Either type of culture used, the souring is necessary for cheese making, and the lactose is reduced. Added benefits of the reduced pH levels include the minimization of pathogenic contamination. The “bad” bugs are less inclined to settle in a more acid environment.

As that soured milk is coagulated into curds and whey, most of the remaining lactose is soluble in the whey. Most all cheeses are crafted from curds. Few cheeses are made from the whey, ricotta being the best known. As the whey is drained away, and/or pressed out, the young curd may retain a little lactose, however most of it is eliminated by this point: either through the acidification or through the elimination with the whey.

Young cheeses sour gracefully as they ripen, further reducing whatever lactose remains. By the time a cheese is a couple of weeks old the lactose is reduced by as much as 95%. All our cheeses are at least four weeks old which makes them virtually lactose free.

Sadly, there are some individuals that still have a low tolerance for cheeses. It is highly unlikely that lactose is the problem. For those people that claim to love cheese but still have adverse reactions, the most frequent cause is an allergic reaction to certain proteins in cow milk. I recommend that those persons stick with goat milk cheeses first. If they tolerate the goat cheeses I recommend that they try sheep milk. Those allergic reactions to cow milk are not necessarily life-long problems.

Milk contains lactose but cheese contains virtually none. When we are newborns we have enzymes in our digestive systems that metabolize lactose. Those enzymes are lost by some people as they move into adulthood.

I hope the lactose issue is clarified here. Sign up for Cheese & Wine 201 for more cheese nutrition factoids.

Max McCalman

It is winter. If you cannot tell by the relative warm we have experienced so far this year, or by the lack of snowstorms compared to last year, the thermometer is still hovering around the freezing mark, if not several degrees below on many nights. On nights like these there is little that warms our insides more effectively than a little Scotch whisky. A bite of cheese provides its own defenses against the stresses brought on by the cold. Try putting the two together and you will weather the winter in better form than usual. Keep the amount of Scotch in moderation, of course, but load up on the cheese. Our bodies require more of those sustaining cheese nutrients than at any other time of the year. This is closely related to the history and advancement of cheese. In the winter months when other sources of nutrition would become scarce, preserved milk in the form of cheese, was able to rise to the occasion.

Speaking of rising to the occasion, the magnificent cheeses from the upper Alpine elevations are in great form now, as are most other aged varieties. Interestingly, the cheeses that appear to pair better with aged Scotch are those that are aged themselves. This is not to say that some of the softer younger cheeses don’t hold up; they simply deliver fewer great matches.

Keeping in mind that not all Scotches are the same, we have noted that different cheeses pair differently with different Scotches. This should be no surprise, as the related but different wines have varying successes with cheeses. The cheese has its own inimitable way of highlighting nuances in beverages, Scotch included.

A word of caution: as cheese has a way of increasing our thirst, we have to be careful not to quench that thirst with Scotch. Water should be included, if not mixed directly into your Scotch, then on the side. To think that there was a time when the available water was not potable in Scotland, that people would quench their thirst with Scotch! Beer usually filled that role, which is one reason why whisky and beer make nice partners.

To fully appreciate the pleasures of Scotch and cheese the beer should be skipped, maybe save one for later. A little Scotch can go a long way, similar to fine cheese. Again, load up on the cheese this winter. You will handle the stresses of the cold season far better with extra cheese, and a nip of Scotch whisky.

We have been meaning to offer a Scotch and cheese class for awhile; we certainly have Scotch fans within our ranks. We finally got around to it this year and now we have a few Scotch and Cheese sessions on our Events calendar. Guests will receive a complimentary copy of Whisky magazine, and a discounted price to the April 11th Whisky Live event in NYC.

Max McCalman

So, what is a Maître Fromager (pronounced MEH-truh froh-mah-ZHAY)?

A Maître Fromager is a cheese master. I fell into the title while juggling the jobs of Picholine restaurant’s Maître d’Hotel and Fromager years ago. The proprietor and chef Terrance Brennan simply deleted the “d’Hotel” and combined the other two parts. At the time I could hardly call myself a master of cheese, yet the title stuck. Naturally it behooved me to become as expert as possible, and as quickly as possible.

It would probably have made more sense to use the title “Fromager.” The time demanded by the cheese service took me away from the Maître d’Hotel duties. This occurred soon after we launched the cheese program there.

When people heard the title Maître Fromager they questioned what that meant. The Fromager part was fairly easy to understand and pronounce, though the spelling seemed to be a little more difficult. I have often seen it misspelled Fromagier. The title Sommelier has been used in this country for decades and is now part of the English language; this could explain why the title is sometimes misspelled fromagier. It would seem that the pronunciation of Sommelier might be a little more difficult to master than Fromager.

And if the Fromager happened to be female, the confusion was more profound. Many females adopted, or were given, the masculine Fromager title. It should be Fromagère, which would be pronounced about the same, with just a little hint of the “r” in the last syllable.

Many Americans dismissed the title; some seemed to have a disdain for it. When we presented the idea of developing an American Cheese Society-endorsed Fromager certification many members balked. Some members flat out said they would never think of calling themselves a “Fromager.” They considered themselves “cheese mongers.” In a retail setting (which is where we believed the certification would have greater interest) cheese monger would be easier for Americans to adopt, pronounce and spell. However, the certification would lack a certain ring to it if one became a “Certified Cheese Monger.” In the fine dining setting I cannot see how that title would lend any appeal whatsoever. Not that fine dining has to be all about what is French!

Nonetheless, many restaurants across the country now have a Fromager, even restaurants that are not French-inspired. A reputable restaurant cheese program requires full-time dedication, or at least many hours of an employee’s time. I believe many “Fromagers” consider the French title a rather prestigious one, both in retail and restaurant environments. “Fromager” rolls off the tongue in a sensual way.

I suppose part of the rejection would be a rejection of all things French, like Liberty Fries. Alors!I like to point out that this country would not be here if it weren’t for the French. It is not whether or not you love the French; it just happens to be a word: attractive to the ear, three syllables instead of the four syllables in “Cheese Monger,” and easy to pronounce. One reluctance to embrace the “Fromager” word could be the suggestion there is a preference to French cheeses over domestic ones, or ones from Italy, or wherever.

As the certification effort began to take shape, the American Cheese Society came up with a compromise. Persons passing the exam would become Certified Cheese Professionals; they could add C.C.P. after their names. I am okay with Certified Cheese Professional but I will still call myself a Fromager, if not a Maître Fromager.

The goal of the certification effort is a noble one. It is to ensure that cheeses are delivered from the producer to the end consumer in the best conditions possible, with all the care and attention to details, and with the knowledge of the product that the public expects. A Certified Cheese Professional will better assure the consumer that the information they are given is accurate, that the cheese is in good form; and for the cheese maker this will give them assurance that their products are handled properly, promoted and described accurately.

To deliver a product at its optimal stage of ripeness should be the goal of fromagers, or whatever you call them. Our classes showcase the talents of our cheese professionals. One of them is Fromager’s Favorites. We look over the selection in our caves and pick out our favorites in each cheese category. Cheeses have their seasons. This means that those “favorites” will change from one class to the next. We are offering a new class this spring “Season’s Best” which is similar to Fromager’s Favorites but the emphasis will be on the notable changes that begin to occur in late April’s world of cheeses. Watch for this new class under Events and Education.

Max McCalman

Grassias, the newest entry into our retail line, is produced in Dallas, Texas at Paula Lambert’s Mozzarella Cheese Company. This attractive little cheese is made with a mix of cow and goat milk, and then encircled with Lemon Grass leaves. The blend of cow and goat is a plus on its own, like the “best-of-both-worlds.” Quite frankly, some people just can’t do the goat, or so they believe. The Grassias may turn out to be an excellent gateway to the wonderful family of goat cheeses, the goat flavor moderated by the buttery cow.

We began working with Paula on developing this cheese over a year ago. One of the original sixteen retail cheeses looked and tasted fine when it was brand new, but they started to decompose too quickly. They lost their charming flavor and the texture became brittle. Recognizing Paula’s award-winning success with young cheeses, we hoped she could help us come up with a recipe that would work. The criteria were that it be a “mild” cheese (the CheeseClock™ quadrant from which the previous cheese was taken), that it be available in high volume (one reason the cow milk was included) that it would have an extended shelf-life and that it be a cheese of exceptional quality. The idea of a mixed milk cheese was a great starting point, especially considering that it was going to be produced from pasteurized milk. (Having a second milk type would enhance the flavor profile of a heat-treated milk cheese.) And because Paula has experience with leaf-wrapped cheeses (as in the Hoja Santa) we thought adding a different leaf would be add a nice touch, a leaf that would be available throughout the year.

When we tasted this cheese several months ago we knew we had a winner. It is mild, very approachable, aromatic, unique, pleasing, and lovely. As I tasted it I thought about its aging potential: how long would it keep? I also considered its versatility with wines: which wines would pair best? When we help samples out to 30 days we noted little difference from when it first arrived. Samples we held out to over 60 days were just as good, if not better.

Regarding its wine partners, I would expect that it will do well with a broad range of wine types. I will taste it with 4 different wines in tonight’s Cheese & Wine 101 class; and make a note of its successes. Paula let me know that she had just tasted the Grassias in a Beer Tasting and said it was excellent with all of them. The fact that lemongrass flavored Thai food pairs well with beers this makes sense. We will taste it with more beers, several more wines, maybe even Scotch in the coming weeks. That’s what we do here: taste our cheeses with many other foods and beverages (fun!) so we can inform you of what combinations work best.

If you are in the Big Apple sometime you might drop in for one of our classes to decide for yourself which pairings work best. Or you can simply order a few wheels and have your own Grassias pairing party. We would love to get your feedback.

Grassias!

Max McCalman

Let us all resolve to eat more cheese next year! We will be happier and healthier if we do. Many cheese makers and cheese mongers will be happier and healthier too!

The per capita consumption in the U.S. continues to rise, the quality of cheese we are consuming is improving, and the past decade has seen dramatic improvements in domestic cheese making. This all bodes well for all Americans. Just to become the number one consumers of fine cheeses is not the goal in itself, yet it would be cool if we did become the biggest consumers. (We are already the biggest consumers of several other things, like gas and electricity.) Far less noble claims, wouldn’t you say?

I believe we should enjoy cheeses from other countries too, even if other countries are less enamored by ours, so far. The per capita consumption of some western European countries has not held up. As it is, I suspect that we already consume more cheese than the Spanish – a sad thing for them. We may have surpassed the British too, not sure but not worth investigating presently.

The impact of this diminished appreciation of cheese in some countries may force some cheese making operations to close. The economics simply are not there. If these producers are not supported by their countrymen then they must look to export markets. Otherwise there is a strong danger that some of these excellent types of cheese will become extinct. Once those cheeses disappear it is highly unlikely that they will be restored. This is one reason I taste as many cheeses as I can. I want to experience the products of as many artisan cheese makers as I can.

The same extinctions have occurred in this country. Several exceptional cheeses are no longer around. This phenomenon cannot be completely stopped of course. Sometimes a cheese maker retires and no one is willing to step in to take over. Very often it is simple math. The bottom line makes the enterprise unsustainable. Rarely, the end of production can be attributed to negligent cheese making which can lead to contamination problems. Once the contaminations are detected it can wreak havoc on a cheese making facility, if not completely closing it down! Fortunately these problems are extremely rare. The industry has done an exceptional job at being self-vigilant. This is especially true of the more artisanal of operations. The cheese is their livelihood, and in more cases than not, the producers are eating their cheeses and feeding them to their families.

I suspect that there will be many people who are making the resolution to reduce their cheese consumption, as though it is an indulgence they should forgo. There are probably several others that are planning to completely stop eating cheese. This means that all the rest of us need to pick up the slack. I know that I will do my part.

Max McCalman

Health.com recently published a report in which the author recommends that cheese be avoided due to its lactose content. Apparently she has not done her homework on this topic. As most cheese people know, most all of the lactose is lost in the production and aging of most cheeses.

In one of the first steps of cheese making, the milk sours (which occurs naturally anyway) through the action of lactic acid bacteria – a beneficial bacteria found in milk which consumes lactose and converts it to lactic acid. In most cheese making today, starter cultures speed up this process, not for the elimination of lactose but to give the cheesemaker control of production and to yield the intended flavor profile in the cheese. The elimination of a significant portion of the lactose just happens to be an added benefit.

After this souring of the milk occurs a coagulant is added (rennet) which has little direct effect on the lactose but results in another opportunity for lactose elimination. Almost all cheeses are produced from the curds separated from the whey in the coagulation step. Most of the whey is eliminated and along with it, the bulk of the lactose is drained away.

The new cheese will continue to acidify gradually. This lowered pH level is one of several reasons why cheese enjoys a great track record for food safety. (The bad bacteria shun the more acid environments.)

The cheese will be virtually lactose free after just a few days of aging. Most everyone can tolerate that trace of lactose found in an aged cheese. The lactase (an enzyme that enables us to digest lactose) is not entirely lost in the digestive system as we move into adulthood.

Some people may have a low tolerance for other things found in cheese but lactose is most likely not the problem.

The article – Digestion: Which Foods Help and Hurt? – was well intended, I am sure. Yet it should be noted that there are several cheese components which actually aid digestion. One amino acid found in high concentration in cheese is Taurine. Though it is not technically an amino acid it is ofter referred to as an amino acid due to its functions, one of which that it acts as a building block of other enzymes, in this case for bile, which is needed for the digestion of fat. Cheese is also a good source for a couple of B vitamins: B2 and B3, both of which are involved in the metabolism of fats and proteins in our diets.

Many Europeans (and more and more Americans) choose to have cheese at the end of their meals. The enzymes in cheese help to break down the foods consumed earlier, as well as the cheese itself. One of several advantages in having cheese at the beginning of the meal is that it helps to prepare our tummies for the foods that we are about to consume. Cheese also has that satiety factor: with a little cheese before the meal we tend to eat less, which of course helps to prevent those tummy aches to begin with.

And besides, we are not talking about eating a lot of cheese here. There are enough of those tummy-ache-mitigating enzymes in just a little bit of cheese. We do not have to eat more of it to get those benefits.

It would benefit health.com if they looked at cheese a little more closely. Far too many pronouncements pop up denouncing cheese, and too few accolades. At least they mentioned that dairy is a good source of the all-important calcium.

Max McCalman

With the myriad of aromas and flavors available in cheeses, the question comes to mind: where do they all come from?

Starting at the endpoint, our taste buds and noses where the detection of those flavors and aromas occurs. The amounts and combinations of fat-soluble and water-soluble compounds within cheeses, some of them volatile, trigger those sensations. The overall taste is comprised by multiple components. The cheeses are distinguished by the way that their volatile compounds combine, interact, and balance each other. The more components a cheese has, the more complex its flavor. If a cheese has few components, it lacks complexity. When one of more of those components dominates or drowns out the others, the cheese lacks balance.

The protein, fat, and sugar in the milk are the building blocks of flavor. The volatile compounds, often referred to as “aromatics,” come from two principal sources: first, the plants the animals eat, and the breakdown of the chemical compounds in those plants during the animals’ digestion process: and second, the action of enzymes, secreted by microorganisms, in breaking down those “building blocks” during the cheese-making and ripening processes.

Scientists estimate that some aromatics come from the feed the animals eat (and the water they drink). The rest is determined by cheesemaking and ripening parameters. Cheese making is largely a preserving of the milk through dehydration, thereby increasing the percentage of milk solids. In terms of taste, the aromatics become more concentrated.

The simplest of cheeses are gently acidified with some salt added. The more complex flavors in an aged cheese are yielded when a series of biochemical reactions begins to occur after the addition of a starter culture. The cultures release their enzymes, and rennets (the coagulants) contribute their animal or plant enzymes. Additional molds, yeasts and bacteria introduced during cheesemaking and/or ripening secrete their own enzymes, which in turn act on the fats and proteins to create volatile compounds. Each substance contributes its specific flavors.

The milk of dairy animals grazing on pasture yields more flavor than animals who are consuming hay or TMR (total mixed ration – a supplemental dry formula feed). Native plants and grasses offer unique flavors and aromas. As the animals chew plants, crushing and oxidizing the chemicals within, aromatics are released into their digestive tracts. Those aromatics make their way into the milk to emerge as aroma- and flavor-giving substances in cheeses. Some of the aromatics are merely inhaled – the quickest method of absorption into the bloodstream.

Species and breed of animal are important factors contributing to flavor, as are all steps of cheesemaking and ripening. Good temperature conditions, enough feed, and plentiful clean water keeps the animals happy. The conditions enjoyed (or endured) by the animals affect the chemical composition of their milk and thus the building blocks of cheese flavor.

With all these variables taken into account, it is no wonder that there is such a broad range of aromas and flavors available in cheese. Furthermore, it should be no surprise that artisanal cheeses will taste a little different, one wheel from the next. A food that we might consider to be rather simple is instead a rather complicated “living” food – a good thing. Better that it be alive than barely breathing!

Max McCalman

Michael Lustgarten’s recent article (Methionine Restriction Extends Lifespan: Another Reason to Reduce Meat/protein Intake) states that one way to increase our lifespan is to reduce our consumption of one of the essential amino acids, methionine, and reducing our overall consumption of protein would help restrict our methionine intake. By the way, methionine is provided in many of the foods that vegans choose: cereal grains, plant seeds, and Brazil nuts, among others.

In another recent article (Vegans, Vegetarians, Fish and Meat Eaters: Which Diet is Best for Minimizing Risk of Disease and Death?) Lustgarten claims that eating cheese up to four times per week did not increase mortality risk, but eating cheese five times per week increased mortality risk by 247%.

The operative word here is “risk.” The risk is associated with elevated total cholesterol to HDL ratios, the higher levels showing as a “strong independent predictor for the development of peripheral arterial disease.” The ratios are relatively low for vegans compared to meat eaters. Simply stated, this article implies that eating cheese as often as five times per week will probably kill you, disregarding several components in fine cheeses that can actually improve cholesterol levels. A question that comes to mind is: what kinds of cheeses were used in this study?

It continues to be widely assumed that high amounts of fat (from whatever source) increases the risk of heat disease. It is worth noting here that two of the highest cheese-consuming countries, France and Italy, have very low incidences of cardiovascular disease.

No two cheeses are the same and most of the cheeses available are unfortunately far removed from the ideal example of preserved milk. Most cheeses today are made with pasteurized milk. The heat treatment involved in pasteurization denatures the proteins in the milk. When proteins are denatured it causes disruption of normal cell function; it can arrest cell development and may actually kill the cell.

Cheese is recognized as a source of conjugated linoleic acid. There are a number of different types of this trans fatty acid (which is not considered a trans fat because of the trans linkages) and the type found in cheese is the one that has been shown to be a weight reducer, it helps lower cholesterol levels, causes a reversal of arteriosclerosis, reduces the risk of diabetes, decreases glucose uptake, and it fights cancer.

Different cheeses have different levels of this important fatty acid. There are higher concentrations of CLA in sheep milk than there is in cow milk, which is higher than that in goat milk. The animals that enjoy a diversity of plant species have a higher concentration than those that have only hay, silage, or limited food options. (Sadly, the romantic image of dairy animals grazing on open pastures is not what we usually find.) Young cheeses have more CLA than older cheeses. Higher fat cheeses have more than lower fat cheeses. Different cheeses have different levels of the various nutrients. This is one good reason to have a variety of cheese types.

Some of the amino acids, vitamins and minerals, that are found in well-balanced and high concentrations in cheese have other life enhancing benefits. One of the marvelous things about cheese is that it is near-complete, nutritionally speaking. Keep in mind that it is derived from our first food – milk – our only food for the first several weeks or months of our lives, yet unlike milk, cheese is virtually lactose free.

Nature magazine published a 2009 study by the University College of London’s Department of Genetics, Evolution and Environment. The study found that adding only methionine to the diet of fruit flies under dietary restriction (including restriction of essential amino acids) restored fecundity without reducing life span. The report concluded thusly: “…the benefits of dietary restriction for health and lifespan may be obtained without impaired fecundity and without dietary restriction itself, by a suitable balance of nutrients in the diet.” For those experimenting with dietary restriction to prolong their lives it is good to remember that a little cheese goes a long way.

In other words, eat just a little variety of fine cheese and you will have a remarkably long fecund life.

Max McCalman

“So, how are your cholesterol levels”? This is the second most FAQ I am asked, right after “If you eat so much cheese why aren’t you fat”?

I have my cholesterol levels checked periodically, just to make sure they are fine. In the meantime I eat a lot of cheese. I estimate that I consume more than twice the national average – more than one pound per week. A recent check of my cholesterol levels came in great: 91 HDL and 61 LDL. Those enviable levels are partly attributable to good genes but the extra cheese does not appear to be hurting.

Cheese Cleared of Cholesterol Charges is an article published recently by Vital Choices Newsletter; it appears to be a well-written and well-researched report. I agree with its premise: cheese should not be blamed for dangerous cholesterol levels. I have seen and heard convincing evidence throughout my cheese career supporting that belief. The assumption that elevated cholesterol levels (of the LDL, “bad” cholesterols especially) leads to cardiovascular disease is not supported by credible research indicating cause and effect, not that cheese has the propensity to raise cholesterol levels, good or bad. As the article points out, there appears to be scant correlation between cholesterol levels and heart disease.

It is interesting that some of the highest per capita cheese consuming countries happen to have some of the lowest incidences of CVD. Of course there are other compounding parameters at play yet it would appear to be simplistic, if not inaccurate, to assume that eating more cheese will cause heart attacks. Instead, more blame for cardiovascular diseases can be attributed to inflammations, many of which are reduced with the fats derived from dairy.

Fine cheese offers several benefits, pleasure among them: curbing the appetite, anti-oxidant properties, metabolism of fats and proteins, a full complement of amino acids for our overall well-being, and many others. It is no wonder cheese is gaining a following among health professionals, and then consequently from insightful media outlets.

Think of cheese as tasty medicine and not as a guilty pleasure. Hippocrates, the father of western medicine, stated it clearly over twenty four centuries ago “Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food.”

Something to nibble on: Max’s Especially Healthy Plate, or sign up for Cheese & Wine 201. (Cheese & Wine 101 is not a prerequisite!)

We have just a few wheels of the marvelous Vacherin Fribourgeois in our wash-rind cave now. They are “screaming-to-be-eaten.” That does not mean that they cannot wait; they will patiently wait until some lucky person gets to eat them. The Vacherin Fribourgeois becomes progressively stronger as it ages. When people hear the word “vacherin” they often assume it is the more famous cousin being referenced, the seasonal Vacherin Mont d’Or. The Vacherin Fribourgeois is available year-round however (a good thing) and the seasonal fluctuations in flavor may be recognizable though subtle. Our Vacherin Fribourgeois is produced from the milk of the Fribourgeois breed of cow (the local name for Holstein) in southwest Switzerland’s Canton Vaud.

Speaking of Holsteins; this cheese gives the breed’s milk a stamp of quality. I doubt the cheese would be quite the same if it were made with Jersey, Swiss Brown, Dutch Best, or any other cattle breed of milk. There are great cheeses produced from milk of those breeds and others, but I cannot imagine what a cheese maker could do to make a better Vacherin Fribourgeois. The cheese is similar to the great melting cheeses Raclette, Val Bagner (a type of Raclette) and Fontina d’Aosta. It has been called the original “party” cheese, and makes a great fondue. I see no reason to melt it down whatsoever. Bringing it up to room temperature and slicing off a wedge is enough – a party in the making. Fondues and raclettes have their places but this cheese is simply divine on its own, again, at room temperature: no colder, and no warmer.

The Fribourgeois does exude a rather mighty aroma at room temperature; one should be prepared for this. The “attack” is rather profound in the mouth too, yet the finish is absolutely sublime. Why I only gave it a quality rating of 95 in Cheese, a Connoisseur’s Guide to the World’s Best, I do not know. It could be because in the past it was a little inconsistent. One wheel would be a little over-the-top, with a gnarly rind and an almost bitter flavor; the next would be almost perfectly cylindrical with a flatter flavor. We have not seen those problems over the past few years.

What is surprising to me is that this cheese does not have a much bigger following. It could be partly because there are other Vacherins Fribourgeois that simply do not measure up, like many other Swiss cheeses. The cheese lover who has only experienced the lesser versions might write off Switzerland altogether. But for those that have had the superior versions, there is no turning back.

I myself might have neglected the Vacherin Fribourgeois for awhile longer if it were not for a cheese selection I was pairing with Scotch yesterday. The selection included several other fine cheeses, yet there it was: a proud wedge of the noble Vacherin Fribourgeois. By the way, it paired beautifully with a Scotch from the Isle of Islay.