News From The Cheese Caves

Stumbling into a Perfect Pairing

Long before legend attributed Marie Harel for its creation, Camembert was already being molded in Normandy, where apples are the dominant fruit of the region. In fact, in 1708, 35 years before Marie’s birth, Thomas Corneille, in his Dictionnaire Universel Géographique and Historique, wrote that excellent cheeses such as Camembert and Livarot were sold in the Vimoutiers Monday market. Later, in 1741 Monsieur de Lamartiniere confirms this information in his Dictionnaire.

In those times, however, the rind on the Camembert retained a blue coat given by the spores of the indigenous mold present in Normandy caves. It was also delivered to Paris in packs of six by diligent horses; which did not offer gentle transport for the delicate cheese. Thus, this posed a difficult situation to the dairies looking to profit from the demand of their cheeses from afar.

However, two important progressions occurred around this time:
- In 1863 Napoleon III opened the Paris-Granville railway.
- In 1880 Monsieur Auguste Lepetit invented a wood box to carry and comfortably pack her Majesty Camembert.

Hence: Packaging + Fast Transport = Success; the cheese began arriving in Paris in much better condition.

Because of these advancements, the texture became softer and the Penicillium coat was able to transform into an immaculate white coat, allowing the cheese to become what it is today.

Pairing Camembert de Normandie is a nightmare!

Let me introduce you to the difficult world of pairing her Majesty Camembert de Normandie (AOP).

Celebrated chef Alain Sanderens, formally of the 3-Michelin star Lucas Carton, and dedicated chef for “La revue des vins de France”, (a monthly French wine magazine) said: “For more than 30 years I tried to pair Camembert with Red, Rosé or White wine without success.” I totally agree, because the best pairing Camembert exists within the fruits of his country: CIDER! In fact, sparkling cider brut or demi-sec is a great companion (you can also choose from a variety of alcoholic ciders).

If you have a sweet taste, you can contrast Camembert’s saltiness by an Ice Cider like Neige* from Québec. My absolute favorite would be with Du Minot Crémant de Glace** elaborated by oenologist Robert Demoy. This light sparkling Crémant, with fine bubbles and subtle aromas will cut the mellow sweetness of Ice Wine and salutes the rich creamy paste of a Normandy cow’s milk.

At this point, her Majesty Camembert will bless your palate sumptuously!

* Neige by La face Cachée de la Pomme, Hemmingford, Québec is available in liquor stores in USA.
** Robert Demoy, oenologist graduated of Bordeaux University. Cidrerie Du Minot, Hemmingford, Québec