News From The Cheese Caves

Artisan Cheese shouldn’t just be for those with a “sophisticated palette,” or Fifth Avenue residents, but for anyone who appreciates a well crafted piece of cheese. As a senior in college, I thought I’d have a hard time fitting artisan cheeses into my budget, but after a session with Denis Cottin, Artisanal’s resident affineur, I’ve come to realize that not all Artisan cheeses are out of reach.

Many goat cheeses are in season right now, and it’s the perfect time of year for them. These soft, creamy cheeses match the fruits that are also at their peak. Fleur de lis pairs perfectly with summer strawberries, or any other fresh fruit. Since this is the only time of year that some of these cheeses are made, it’s the perfect opportunity to try them with the best of the summer fruits available. Cabecou Feuille, another goat cheese, is perfect with fresh peaches (since it’s marinated with peach schnapps) and at its price, it’s hard to resist.

Not into goat cheese? Banon de Chalais is a soft cow’s milk cheese, or you can try Saint Marcellin, another soft cow cheese that is super creamy. You don’t need to know a lot about cheese to see that these taste good—the pictures say a thousand words.

As a newbie to the world of fine cheeses, I was a little afraid to dive in for fear of never being able to afford what they let me try at work. I’m not worried anymore.

Holly Walker
Intern

Technorati Profile
An interview with Executive Chef Armando Monterroso from the Marriott Marquis. The Marriott Marquis is located at
1535 Broadway, NY, NY 10036.

1. Chef Armando, when did you decide you wanted to be a Chef?
I realized when I failed my engineering school (laugh). At the time I needed to earn my “college money” so I worked in the kitchen. What I really enjoyed first was the camaraderie. When I decided to learn my trade, I went to the Culinary School of Johnson and Wales. There I got a degree in Hospitality and Culinary.

2. Do you find some similarities between engineering and culinary?
I do. I enjoy planning and designing a menu so there are definitively similarities. It has to look good, to have a good structure in the dish. It has to be harmonious.

3. Did you have a mentor when you left Johnson & Wales?
I’ve learned from numerous chefs. I did not follow one in particular. I think to be good you have to be a sponge and learn from a lot of other people.

4. How do you apply what you’ve learned at the Marriott Marquis?
You always have to ask yourself what your specialty is and what you excel at. My specialty is to be able to adapt myself to the situation that is happening in front of me.
To take an analogy in sports, I see myself as a football coach. For instance we’ve recently launched 3 new restaurant menus, a new catering menu, and a new concept: a cheese, chocolate and champagne bar every Friday and Saturday.
It takes a lot of adaptation to make this happens. You have your plans but you need to be able to change them a little bit, to tweak them.

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1. How long have you been working in a kitchen and what has been your best experience so far?
I’ve been working for 12 years already. My best experience was my first experience at the Hotel du Palais where I learned my trade at the age of 16. I started touching great products such as truffle and caviar and learned how to select these products. My father was also a chef so I wanted to do like daddy!

2. If you had to make a cheese, what would it taste like?
My cheese would taste like the Pyrennees, the mountains where I grew up. It would have a nice grass flavor and of course would be made of sheep’s milk!

3. What amazes you the most in cheese?
What amazes me the most is the diversity and most importantly the affinage. For instance if we take a Valencay from the same cheese maker it could be very good but also a very bad one if the affinage is not done properly. The affinage is what amazes me the most, the affineur is the one that brings the best flavors out of the cheeses. I can see that when I go to the supermarket versus what I receive from Artisanal!
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