News From The Cheese Caves

There are not nearly as many cow milk cheeses in Spain than there are sheep or goat milk types. This is mainly due to the warm dry climate that dominates most of the peninsula. Of the cow cheeses that are produced, most of them are made in the northern part of the country, from Galicia all the way over to Catalunya, with a few others scattered around other greener parts of the country, including the Balearic Islands in the Mediterranean.

The province of Asturias boasts the broadest variety of types, not only cow milk cheeses but a few goat, sheep, and a number of mixed milk cheeses. One of the more unusual cheeses from the region is the Beyos. The cheese has a dense clay texture that becomes chalkier with age. When you first take a bite of the Beyos it may remind you of a goat cheese – that clay chalky texture most often found in those cheeses. I have tasted a goat version of Beyos as well as a mixed cow/goat version, but I much prefer the better-known 100% cow Beyos.

The dry paste may be a little surprising at first; it is so unusual, yet it melts into a buttery finish, mouth-wateringly delicious. During the most recent Master Intensive Series we tasted the Beyos in the cheese and wine session. It was included as one of the cow cheeses that is pressed but not cooked, a little bit like cheddar. One of the wines that we tasted with the cheeses was a Prieto Picudo from Castilla-León in northwest central Spain. It is a Rosé (Rosado) that has a raspberry flavor, similar to what you find in Grenache (Garnacha).

This was one of the best matches we had in the session; the assessments were unanimous. One person was reminded of a raspberry tart.

One word of caution about the Beyos, for all of you that like to eat the rinds of their cheeses: this rind can develop a little mold growth that, though it is beneficial to the flavor and the texture of the cheese within, is not particularly tasty itself. Enjoy the buttery inside, and try it with the relatively inexpensive Prieto Picudo.

From the tiny village of Azeitão (Ah-zhey-TONE) just south of Lisbon, the eponymous cheese is one that I have admired for years. Its soft unctuous texture and its nutty olive oil flavor makes for an inviting gateway to the diversity of thistle-renneted cheeses of Iberia. Azeitão appeared in my first book – The Cheese Plate – in the all-sheep plate. The ode that I wrote to it in my latest book – Mastering Cheese – had to be edited down; the tribute I wrote to it was just short of “X” rated.

Azeitão is a particularly sexy cheese, being made with sheep milk helps. Because it is produced in a relatively small format makes it a perfect cheese for sharing with your significant other, though as I mention in that ode, you can enjoy it all by yourself. Likely you can’t quite finish it in one setting however, not even two persons, it is so full of great nutrients: protein and amino acids, good butterfats and conjugated linoleic acid, vitamins and minerals.

Just last night we had this cheese in a Cheese & Wine 101 class here at the Center. We tasted it against a Muscadet, a Prieto Picudo and a Primitivo. I enjoyed the cheese with all three of the wines, but the clear favorite for most everyone was the Primitivo. The Azeitão has way of taming the medium tannins in many red wines, the more rustic types and the more elegant styles. In my second book – Cheese, a Connoisseur’s Guide to the World’s Best – the Azeitão is highlighted and several varietals are recommended as good pairing partners, Zinfandel (a descendant of Primitivo) is listed.

(a.k.a. Krümmenswiler Försterkäse, a.k.a. Bergfichte)

We’ve seen a cheese on the market that goes by this name – Försterkäse. It is a nice cheese but it is not a great cheese. The Bergfichte we carry is the one that counts. It is absolutely spectacular, chock full of umami, and voluptuous. Some people can’t get past the aroma but to me it is an endearing one.

One problem that fans of these softer wash-rind cheeses have with their favorite red wines is the limited pairing successes they seem to have. This can especially true for the Pinot Noir fans. They may crave those soft stinky cheeses but whether or not their Pinot will pair well with those cheeses is a bit iffy. These wines generally do better with natural-rind cow or sheep milk cheeses, pressed but not cooked types, rarely the goats or the blues.

Years ago when I was looking for the most-likely-to-succeed varietals for the cheeses that are featured in my second book – Cheese, a Connoisseur’s Guide to the World’s Best – I hesitated to try Pinot Noirs with the Krümmenswiler Försterkäse (as it was then known). I recalled how often these types of cheeses can destroy that noble grape. To my amazement, not only did the wine and cheese complement each other, they elevated one another! Layers and layers of flavors came through, out of the cheese as well as the wine.

Granted, not all Pinot Noirs are the same. So what might happen with another?

Fortunately, I had the same great successes with just about every Pinot that I tried. Again, not everyone cares for the type of funky aroma that the Bergfichte exudes. Yet if you are looking for one of those drop-dead gorgeous matches between cheeses and wines, I recommend that you try this one.

Because the name Försterkäse (meaning “forest cheese”) is a little easier to pronounce than its original full name, and because many people began to abbreviate the name without the Krümmenswiler in front, we continue to call the cheese Försterkäse, even though the new name for the cheese is actually Bergfichte, that is if you want to get the great one.

The best-known cheese from Portugal is Queijo Serra d’Estrela; we call it Serra. As I note in Mastering Cheese, Lessons for Connoisseurship this is the quintessential Portuguese cheese and a great party cheese. Serra is to Portugal as Manchego is to Spain, as Comté is to France, and Gouda is to Holland. Its popularity and reputation is well deserved; this cheese makes a frequent appearance in our Great Iberian Peninsula events. The aged firmer varieties of Serra provided an efficient source of nutrition for Portuguese sailors centuries ago. On the younger side (which is what we see most often) the Serra is unctuous and buttery, with nutty deep olive oil flavors.

The flavors for the Serras require depth in their wine partners to find the best balance. The cheese happens to be produced near where Portugal’s best known wines are produced – the Portos – most of those being fairly deep wines themselves. The ports and Serras can harmonize rather well but one of the best matches that I have found for this cheese is found in wines that are either 100% Syrah (or Shiraz) or are wines in which that varietal is dominant.

The older Portuguese people appear to prefer their Serras on the more aged side when the cheeses become firmer and more intensely flavored as well as a little saltier. At this age the Serra pairs a little better with the Port wines. Again, we see the Serras arrive here on the younger side so you might look to the Syrah wines for the better match. The Syrahs are known for the jammy qualities and the Serras having their nutty flavors may remind you of a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, a classic and familiar matching, only better.

For all the many cheese types that are produced in France, no other type quite defines French cheeses than the triple-crèmes. I often refer to these cheeses as “luxury” cheeses because they are fat-added cheeses, more luxurious than the double-crèmes because they have a minimum of 75% fat in dry matter compared to the minimum of 60% for the doubles. 75% would not make them exactly triple the fat that would be found in the milk to begin with, yet considerably more than the 60% of the double-crèmes.

Neither of these cheese types may be my favorite types, not because they may be more fattening (because they aren’t necessarily so anyway) but I have to admit that they are quite popular. I took one to a Bastille Day party recently and the cheese was devoured within a matter of minutes, the firmer cheese beside it lasted a little longer even though it weighed less. One reason that I may veer away from these cheeses is because they contain relatively higher water content than the firmer varieties (one of the reasons that they aren’t actually more fattening). I would prefer to pay for the good solids offered in cheese than the water.

Every once in a while I sample one of those triple-crèmes anyway. At a Cheese & Wine 201 seminar recently we incorporated a Brillat-Savarin Frais (a rindless example from one of the best producers) into the mix of cheeses. One of the wines we sampled was a Friulano. The triple-crèmes have often presented challenges to their wine partners, or at least the pairings have only been rated as “good.”

Though I did not expect this matching to thrill us, after the cheese and wine had melded together in the mouth, the layers of flavor began to unfold into an unusual and exceptional finish. The Friulanos are noted for their delightful blends of aromatics – floral, fruity, vegetal and nutty – as well as their medium bodied textures, their softness that is balanced by some acid. These qualities would suggest a delightful match for the rich Brillat-Savarin Frais. The acid in the wine would dissolve the added fat of the cheese. The medium-bodied texture of the Friulano would complement the thick texture of the cheese. The nutty, fruity aromatics in the wine coupled with the sweet creamy flavor of the cheese might suggest a banana split.

What we noted was an enhanced savory note in the wine. A detection of the presence of umami rose up and it gave us the surprise top pairing of the evening. This was a pairing of cheese and wine where both the wine and the cheese were elevated, a one plus one equals three matching!

After experiencing this pairing I plan to include Friulano wines more frequently in our classes.

The Abbaye de Tamié has been produced at the eponymous monastery in the Savoie since the 12th century. On the young side this cheese may remind you of the thick cream that rises to the top of fresh uncompromised milk; when it is a little older the cheese becomes beefier in flavor. The curds are cut fairly large and the young cheese is lightly pressed to give it an unctuous texture. Much of the depth of flavor comes from the full pasturage upon which the cows graze. The cheese has light washings giving it added depth. Younger or older, the cheese exudes a pleasant barnyard aroma.

With these qualities the Abbaye de Tamié tolerates few ordinary wines. As with many other cheeses in this family, a fine Riesling makes the ideal partner. The bright acidity that these wines possess gracefully breaks down the butterfats. The sweet floral notes in Riesling balance the outdoorsy flavor aromatics of this exquisite cheese. For anyone that has not yet appreciated what Rieslings can bring to the table, the Abbaye de Tamié should be on their plate.

One of the most exquisite and memorable cheese and wine pairings that I have ever experienced is the one that occurs between wines that are made from the Chenin Blanc grape and a little sheep milk cheese from Switzerland – the rare and distinctive Flixer. This cheese is related to the better known Alpine style cheeses such as Appenzeller; this cheese is cooked, pressed, and it receives several washings to enhance its savory flavor profile.

Chenin Blanc in its many expressions, from the lightest drier styles to the fruitier more viscous or sparkling types, generally pairs most successfully with goat or sheep milk cheeses (though in its sweeter incarnations especially, it can be a respectful wine partner for many cow milk cheeses). The Flixer prefers white wines, and the chestnut flavor and toothsome texture of this cheese provides the perfect complement for the honeyed peach and mineral notes of the Chenin Blanc wines. The good acidity that this grape acquires dissolves the compact Flixer to a mouth-watering finish.

Quite frankly: why this varietal is not considered to be one of the “noble” grapes is a little surprising. It can stand out on its own or it can blend successfully with a number of other grapes.

There are several lovely Chenin Blanc wines around, from the new world as well as its probable birthplace in France. There is however only a limited supply of Flixer available – one solitary producer, Mario Cotti in Canton Graubünden. This is one of those “before I die” cheese and wine marriages to experience.

Stumbling into a Perfect Pairing

Long before legend attributed Marie Harel for its creation, Camembert was already being molded in Normandy, where apples are the dominant fruit of the region. In fact, in 1708, 35 years before Marie’s birth, Thomas Corneille, in his Dictionnaire Universel Géographique and Historique, wrote that excellent cheeses such as Camembert and Livarot were sold in the Vimoutiers Monday market. Later, in 1741 Monsieur de Lamartiniere confirms this information in his Dictionnaire.

In those times, however, the rind on the Camembert retained a blue coat given by the spores of the indigenous mold present in Normandy caves. It was also delivered to Paris in packs of six by diligent horses; which did not offer gentle transport for the delicate cheese. Thus, this posed a difficult situation to the dairies looking to profit from the demand of their cheeses from afar.

However, two important progressions occurred around this time:
- In 1863 Napoleon III opened the Paris-Granville railway.
- In 1880 Monsieur Auguste Lepetit invented a wood box to carry and comfortably pack her Majesty Camembert.

Hence: Packaging + Fast Transport = Success; the cheese began arriving in Paris in much better condition.

Because of these advancements, the texture became softer and the Penicillium coat was able to transform into an immaculate white coat, allowing the cheese to become what it is today.

Pairing Camembert de Normandie is a nightmare!

Let me introduce you to the difficult world of pairing her Majesty Camembert de Normandie (AOP).

Celebrated chef Alain Sanderens, formally of the 3-Michelin star Lucas Carton, and dedicated chef for “La revue des vins de France”, (a monthly French wine magazine) said: “For more than 30 years I tried to pair Camembert with Red, Rosé or White wine without success.” I totally agree, because the best pairing Camembert exists within the fruits of his country: CIDER! In fact, sparkling cider brut or demi-sec is a great companion (you can also choose from a variety of alcoholic ciders).

If you have a sweet taste, you can contrast Camembert’s saltiness by an Ice Cider like Neige* from Québec. My absolute favorite would be with Du Minot Crémant de Glace** elaborated by oenologist Robert Demoy. This light sparkling Crémant, with fine bubbles and subtle aromas will cut the mellow sweetness of Ice Wine and salutes the rich creamy paste of a Normandy cow’s milk.

At this point, her Majesty Camembert will bless your palate sumptuously!

* Neige by La face Cachée de la Pomme, Hemmingford, Québec is available in liquor stores in USA.
** Robert Demoy, oenologist graduated of Bordeaux University. Cidrerie Du Minot, Hemmingford, Québec

I have been working at the Artisanal Premium Cheese Center as an intern from The Culinary Institute of America for the last three months, in many different areas of the company, ranging from affinage and production to P.R. and event promotion. I have worked directly with cheese expert Max McCalman, as well as with Artisanal Roastmaster Keith Geter. I have accompanied fromager Waldemar Albrecht to promotional events, and ventured to the James Beard awards where I helped cut and serve cheese to hundreds of foodies and celebrities alike. I have thoroughly enjoyed every moment I’ve spent here, but I must say that personally selecting the cheeses for the Cheese and Wine 101 class has been my favorite endeavor yet.

Max asked me to take a walk through our cheese caves to see if I could come up with a tentative list of cheeses to use in our Cheese & Wine 101 class. I excitedly agreed as I pulled out my notepad and began jotting down ideas. I knew what types I wanted to use; a fresh goat, an aged goat for comparison, a mild aged sheep, a washed rind stinker, a wild-ball eye opener, a well known cheese the way it’s meant to be done, and a classic blue. Max told me to keep in mind progression and variety, as we always do. This was my selection:

1. Laurier, a Vermont goat cheese exclusive to Artisanal
2. Monte Enebro, a Spanish aged goat cheese
3. Zamorono, a delightfully nutty Spanish sheep cheese
4. Queijo Serra da Estrela, a bold, herbaceous Portuguese cheese
5. Barely Buzzed, rind rubbed in espresso and lavender
6. Four year aged Gouda, a classic firm cheese
7. Roquefort Artisanal, a classic French bleu made with sheep’s milk

I sent my original proposal to Max and he agreed with my selections. I felt, upon completion, a joy I had not yet known. This was my cheese list. I selected these cheeses for people to eat. I was proud of my selection and during the class everything seemed to taste five times better than I remembered. The guests enjoyed themselves just as much as any other night, only this time I had a hand in their pleasure. I have since followed a similar process to choose cheeses for other classes. I feel like this was a very prominent landmark in my stay here, since when I started in April, I knew nothing about cheese. I owe it all to my coworkers here at the Artisanal Cheese Center; they taught me everything I know.

Frank Buatti
Intern

Last Tuesday night we presented our first ever class featuring our fresh roasted beans and cheeses. I had the opportunity to share the panel with renowned coffee expert Daniel Humphries and our in house master roaster Matt Russo. We navigated through the intricacies of the coffee trade from its origins to its varietals and main producers, with Daniel’s engaging style.

Cheeses came right after with plethora of aromas, milk types and ripening processes. Guests had the opportunity to enjoy some of the remarkable tastings while enjoying the discussion and seeing firsthand the process of brewing coffee from scratch.

Kenya, Brazil Cerrado and Sumatra were some of the offerings, that left the palate wanting for more. It was then that with a slight java jolt and a happy tummy that we celebrated this groundbreaking experience.